Using a simple “screen” mode (photoshop) layer is the a very easy way to help bring to life the face and eyes. In this photo I duplicated the photo layer and changed its mode to screen. I then (option clicked) on add layer mask which adds a completely black mask. Then using a white brush at 0% hardness while the layer mask is highlighted I filed in the eyes and parts of the face that were to dark allowing them to be shown in the screen layer. Next you can play with the feather and opacity amount on this layer which will be different for every photo.


Taking photos of wild life that thinks its camouflaged by its background makes it easy to get close to with a macro lens because they won’t get scared and run away.

If you’re looking to do Macro photography a real macro lens can be really expensive. What I found to avoid spending $500 plus on another lens is a Macro Extension Tube Set by Fotodiox for only $15. It attaches directly to the camera extending the distance your lens is from the shutter, this allows  you to get objects in focus pretty much as close as you can get your camera to the object. Here is a photo I took about 1cm away from these fake flowers, I am also using a Ring Light which is recommended when shooting macro with a tube extension because your aperture is push way up which really darkens a shoot.

New Camera the Canon 60D, the old camera was an 8 year old Canon rebel. Best noticeable difference so far are high ISO levels have a lot less noticeable noise on the new camera, and the new camera also came with a stabilized lens which is extremely useful in low light so you can shoot at slower shutter speed while still avoiding camera shake.This also helps avoid the “camera flash” look that can ruin any good photo.

I was confused at first about this photo, the background was shot like it was moving and the bikers seems to be stationary. What I end up realizing after a little thought was that the photographer “tarsobessa” must have moved the camera at the same speed as the biker making the background seem moving relative to the camera. A really cool technique I thought.

Link to flickr original image: – PIC

If you are building a CGI scene in Cinema 4D or other programs, to composite into a real life scene, then you are going to need an HDRI image. An HDRI image can be used  in your CGI program to allow you to have light and reflection of the real life scene which is very important in making your composite realistic. An HDRI image is a full 360 panoramic shot of the area of the scene that you are compositing, most well done HDRI shot are done with very expensive camera, but it may be hard to tell that you used a $1 iPhone app for your HDRI image if you do it right. I was going to explain the technique I used but as I was browsing the internet I found that on GreyScaleGorilla’s website there was already a detailed tutorial on how to do this. So instead of just re-doing an already explained technique here is the link 360 Panorama HDRI.

I’m sure if you’ve made a couple projects in After Effects (AE) you’ve used Photoshop to edit an image to be used in your AE project. What I think a lot of people don’t think of is creating an image in AE for Photoshop. With all the tools AE has, if you’re looking to create a mind blowing image and you’re stuck, why not turn to AE and create something to add onto your current Photoshop project. I’ve always thought about doing something like this and I just so happen to glance at Video Copilot’s web site today and saw an article about this exact topic. Also Video Copilot has made a plugin that makes it extremely simple to take a frame from AE into Photoshop. Link for plugin COPY and PASTE. It copies the frame to your clipboard so you can paste it into Photoshop. This is the Video Copilots ARTICLE.